Im więcej jesieni w powietrzu, tym bardziej chce się jeść. Zamykam oczy i widzę cypryjską tawernę. Maleńkie chrupiące rybki też widzę. I atakuje mnie kolokasi, ser haloumi piszczy, że chce do paszczy, karidaki sklejają mi myśli.
Na początek o bulwie nad bulwami. Nazywa się kolokasi i wygląda trochę jak jakiś praziemniak. Albo ziemniak dotknięty dermatozą. Ale jest to nie tylko całkiem zdrowe warzywo, ale też smakuje wcale intrygująco. W dodatku, to mój dramat, nie potrafię sobie przypomnieć tego smaku. Z niczym, co znam, jakoś skojarzyć. Cypryjczycy rozmaicie swą tradycyjna bulwę jadają, np. w pomidorowym sosie i z mięsem, ale mnie zachwyciło jej podanie na sposób frytkowy – paski usmażone w oleju. Tak też przygotowałam przywiezione do Polski kolokasi i nawet samo krojenie tego warzywa sprawiło mi niebywałą frajdę. Wydzielało jakieś błogosławione ni to soki, ni to kremy do rąk na bazie krochmalu, w każdym razie z bulwą byłam w nieustannym poślizgu. Gdzieś w interni przeczytałam, że pod żadnym pozorem nie wolno myć jej wodą. Ktoś coś wie, dlaczego?
Kolokasi a la frytki obsypane oregano i morską solą.
Za czym jeszcze tęsknię? Za świeżością morskich dóbr. Za marynowanymi ośmiorniczkami i małymi frytowanymi rybkami, które pochłaniałam, o ja okrutna, patrząc im w oczy, w całości!
Kypriakes ravioles, czyli cypryjskie pierożki, robione ma moich oczach w tawernie Tochni kusiły w dwójnasób: na słono (z halloumi i miętą) i na słodko (z halloumi, cynamonem i wodą różaną). Lepiej żyć wspomnieniem czy próbować odtworzyć w domowych warunkach tamte cuda. Odtworzyć.
A jak już mowa o serze halloumi (bywa, że jest to trójser owczo-krowio-kozi), to świętym obowiązkiem wyprawiających się na Cypr jest pożarcie go w formie grillowanej z nieodłączną sałatką grecką (po raz pierwszy w życiu nazębnie zrozumiałam, czym jest chrupkość doskonała).
Bez kawy po cypryjsku, takiej z tygielka, słodzonej na etapie parzenia, trzykrotnie zagotowanej, (najlepiej) jasno palonej, pachnącej tak ziemiście wszystkie obiadowe doznania nie mają sensu. Oczywiście w moim przypadku taka kawa pociąga za sobą dodatki. Najlepszy jakiego spróbowałam, nazywa się karidaki. Orzechy, jak to u nas mówią włoskie, syropem z goździkami zalane, kiedy były jeszcze zielone, a więc koniec końców smoliście czarne i NIEBIAŃSKIE.
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